Pure Home Paints 101

You’ve got your Pure Home Paints colors all picked out. You have scoured Pinterest for your inspiration photos. Now you are ready to get to work. You can find our Pinterest here if you would like to connect there. 

What You Can Paint Using Pure Home Paints

Pure Home Paints are of professional quality while being beginner friendly. They work on so many surfaces that it may be easier to list what you can’t paint…

I have personally, successfully painted:

• Wood
• Plastic
• Metal
• Glass
• Fabric (Including T-shirts & canvas shoes)
• Leather

I have seen others paint

• Outdoor Fountains
• Cement floors
• Tile surrounds
• Countertops
• Kitchen sinks (so cliche I know)

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About the Pure Home Paints Products

You can find out what makes Pure Home Paints and Finishes special by clicking here.

The Prep

With all the paint processes, the prep is the most important part. Each project may vary a little on what needs to be done to it before painting. The good news is that when you use Pure Home Paints on pieces that are in great condition, it equals quick and easy clean only prep. You may skip to step 3 below if that is you.

Steps

1. 1. Make any structural or cosmetic repairs to the piece.
2. If you have any blemishes that you want to be sanded out, then sand accordingly.
   • In most cases, I sand with a 120 grit sandpaper to remove any deep scratches.
   • If you are painting over a more glossy surface, a quick scuff sand to create the slight ridges in the finish will help the paint to stick. I do this on any laminates, glossy varnish, or very smooth surfaces.
3. Mix equal parts white vinegar & plain water in a spray bottle. Spray your project piece and use the scrubby side of a dish sponge to give it a good cleaning. Rinse your sponge as needed. Even clean seeming pieces will shock you with what comes off!
4. Next, take your rinsed sponge and clean water to give your piece a rinse wipe down.
5. Some pieces are dirtier than others. I like to give my projects an additional wipe down with a Clorox wipe or a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.
6. Allow drying.

NOTE: Steps 1 and 2 are not always necessary. These are only if you have repairs that you want to make. Pure Home Paints are self-leveling and will fill in any minor scratches.

Now to Paint with Pure Home Paints

1. Open your Pure Home Paints color. It most likely will be separated. Take note that it does not smell, there are not any toxins that may give you a headache. You may use the entire line indoors and around your children! If you are not a control freak, maybe you can even let them help… Or entertain them with rocks to paint while you get your work done.
2. Stir, stir, stir your paint. I generally use a wooden paint stir or in the smaller containers, I use chopsticks if I have them on hand. Once fully stirred the paint should not show any separation. It will be like a pudding (Consistency may vary a little depending on the pigments)
3. Get your paintbrush. I always use & highly recommend our Cling On! brand brushes. You can find more information on them here. You can, however, use any brush meant for water-based products.
4. Dampen the bristles of your paintbrush with water. The damp brush is what helps to spread the thick paint smoothly. The drier the brush the more pronounced your brush strokes will be.
   • The brush should not be dripping, just damp.
   • You can give the brush a little flick into the sink to remove excess water.
   • Another option is to give it a little wringing with your hand.
   • The brush will need to be re-dampened as you go. I generally keep a sauce jar with water in it to dip the bristles into, and then I pull the brush against the mouth of the jar to push water out if I get it too wet.
5. Dip the ends of your brush into the paint.
   • This should only be about a half inch.
6. Now spread the paint onto your piece.
   • You will develop your own signature way of spreading the paint. Some people like to follow a full line in the same direction as the wood grain with no stops end to end. Some will paint in varying directions just covering the piece. The good news is that this type of paint will look great either way. (I am a follow the grain edge to edge type in most cases. I know very successful painters who apply their paint with varying strokes. No right or wrong:)
   • Your first coat may seem sparse and you will see some of your wood showing through. This is normal. The first layer creates the base & the next layer will begin to fill it in.
7. As you paint pay attention to the corners. Every so often, go back to make sure that you don’t have built up “Paint Boogers”. If still wet you can hit them with a dryish brush to spread them in or knock them off.
8. Apply your second coat after the first one dries. Approximately 10 minutes depending on your application and the weather where you are working in. Most paint colors will cover in 2 coats. Some may require 3, use your judgment.

Distressing Your Project

After your paint dries you can go ahead and distress (if you want to). There are several methods for distressing, the most common is to take a sanding pad or an electric sander and sand the areas that would normally show signs of wear and age. Corners, around knobs, any raised detail areas. This will highlight and accentuate the architecture. If you are distressing those “paint boogers” are less of a worry as you can just sand them off.

After sanding use a clean, lint-free cloth to wipe away the dust that may have accumulated.

Protective Top Coats & Protective Antiquing Glazes

You may have noticed that your paint finish is looking a little flat. This style of paint is very porous which is why it dries so quickly and what helps it adhere so well. After painting and distressing you will choose the type of protective finish to create your desired look, remember those Pinterest dreams we started off with? Glazes can help you get the antiqued look you may desire.

We offer several finish options.

You may choose a Pure Home Paints Clear Protective Finish in either Matte (flat), or Satin (slight sheen). This will deepen the color you are seeing & protect your paint color for years to come.

You may also choose one of our Pure Home Tinted Glazes. We carry Sable, Ebony, Smoke, or Pearl.

You will need 2 coats of any of the above finish options/combinations. When I first started, and even now,  I used one of the clear products first. This will give you a little more play if you want to use the glazes. The top coat is absorbed into the paint pores. If clear is absorbed first filling the paint pores. Then the glaze is painted on as your 2nd coat. With this application, the glaze will be riding on top of the clear coat and not be soaking into the paint. The glazes sometimes take getting used to to get the look you want.

How to use Pure Home Paints Protective Top Coats and Glazes

1. Shake product well.
2. Squirt some product onto a styrofoam plate.
3. Using the same brush (rinsed) that you used for the paint process.
4. Get your brush a tinge wetter than you did for the paint. Not drippy, just a little wetter.
5. Dip your brush ends into the product you squirted onto the plate.
6. In the empty space on the plate work the product into the bristles a little.
7. “Paint” the top coat onto your project.
8. Try not to overlap your strokes too much. Especially if the first stroke has started to dry.
9. Dip your brush tips to re-dampen as needed.
10. Cover the whole piece checking for “boogers” just like you did with the paint. Topcoat boogers are worse than paint boogers.
11. Once dry you may lightly sand if you prefer an extra smooth finish. This is not mandatory. I do this mainly on tops of pieces, not sides or drawers. Remember to wipe away any sanding dust before applying your second coat.
12. Wait about 15 minutes for your first coat to dry, and then apply your second coat using either the clear, or switching to a glaze.
    • Glazes will add a sheer color wash. They will settle into the existing brush strokes, and darken the wood where you may have distressed.
    • Glazes take the color options on our sheet at the top and make the variety of looks endless.
    • Don’t be afraid to experiment a little. All of our products can be layered over one another.
    • If you are unhappy with your glaze coat, and you started with a clear coat, grab a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and you should be able to wipe back that glaze coat to get to the clear. Even now I sometimes wipe back my glaze coat and redo it. Don’t stress!! You may be able to wipe the glaze back up to 48 hours after application
13. Top coats and glazes will cure after about 3 days. In humid conditions or heavy application, this could take longer.

Now go finish up that project and enjoy your masterpiece!

Still have questions? Check out our upcoming Workshop schedule. You may also comment here or email me at info@whimsyandwood.com.